Long Way Education

By Eman Abdallah Kamel

Eman is a writer and an engineer. She received her bachelor’s degree in textile science from the Faculty of Applied Arts, Egypt.

Wool is the natural fiber of some animals’ coats. There are many types of wool, such as sheep’s wool, cashmere, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca wool, llama wool, and camel wool. This article discusses the properties of each type.

Natural Wool

God Almighty created Adam and promised not to let him starve or be naked, as mentioned in the Noble Quran: “In the Name of Allah, the Most Gracious, and the Most Merciful.

118. Indeed, you have ‘a promise from Us’ that you will never be hungry or unclothed. (Surah Ta-Ha 20:118).

Since the beginning of man’s existence on earth, God has provided him with all the conditions for living a fulfilling life. Since wool serves as a natural coat for animals, humans have also worn it since ancient times to shield themselves from different weather conditions.

Characteristics

• Wool has natural properties that make it suitable for human use. Wool can easily absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp.
• Wool is considered a regulator of temperature because it can protect the body in both cold and warm conditions.
• Wool absorbs moisture from the atmosphere with higher humidity and releases it in the driest environment. As it creates a balance of humidity conditions. This property makes wool a multi-season fabric.
• Wool fibers are also flexible and non-flammable.

Popular Wool Fibers

1. Sheep Wool,
2. Cashmere Wool,
3. Mohair Wool,
4. Qiviut Wool,
5. Angora Wool,
6. Alpaca Wool,
7. Lama Wool,
8. Camel Wool.

Wool fibers differ in their characteristics. The price of each type depends on the availability of raw wool fibers and global production.

Merino ram is shown in the first photo, and Merino fleece is shown in the second.

1. Merino Wool

Merino sheep breeds originated in Spain and then became widely known in Australia. Merino wool fiber is a short staple, fine, curly, and very soft. The fiber diameter ranges from 14.5 μm to 23.5 μm.

Did you know?

Sheep wool is obtained from different sheep breeds. Merino wool comes on top of sheep breeds.

Merino wool is

• A good insulator.
• Provides warmth.
• It can stretch without losing its shape due to its natural elasticity.
• Naturally fire-resistant.
• Slightly moisture-repellent. It absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture before the body feels wet and dries quickly.

Merino wool’s natural qualities and hypoallergenic qualities make it the perfect choice for those with sensitive skin. This high-quality wool is usually used to make clothing, blankets, and sheets.

First photo of white cashmere goats (pashmina) in the foothills of the Himalayas. Image source: istockphoto.com. The second image is of cashmere fiber. Image source: paychiguh.com

2. Cashmere

Cashmere wool is the fiber of cashmere goats. Cashmere goat wool has been processed into textiles since 1000 BC in the Kashmir valley in northern India. Currently, cashmere is produced in China, Mongolia, Nepal, Pakistan, and Iran, in addition to the large farms that raise cashmere goats in Australia, New Zealand, and Scotland.

Characteristics,

• Cashmere wool has a fine structure.
• It is strong, light, and soft.
• Cashmere fibers range in diameter from 7 to 19 microns. This fineness gives cashmere its silky feel.

Did you know?

Cashmere is considered extremely rare because the annual cashmere production from each goat is about 150 grams.

This luxurious fleece is widely used in jackets, children’s clothing, coats, and underwear. Pashmina is a kind of cashmere mainly used in shawls and scarves. Coarse cashmere is used in the carpet industry.

There are three colors of raw cashmere: white, brown, and grey. Cashmere fibers can be dyed any color. Cashmere wool is softer, finer, stronger, lighter, and more insulating than sheep’s wool. On the other hand, cashmere is expensive. Cashmere fibers are usually blended with other fibers to reduce cost.

The first photo is of an Angora goat. Image source: youtube.com. The second is for angora goat fibers.

3. Mohair Wool

Angora goats were used to produce mohair wool, one of the oldest fibers used in textiles. The Angora goat originated in Tibet and arrived in Turkey in the 16th century. The manufacture of mohair wool was known in England in the eighteenth century. Mohair originated from the Arabic word al-Mukhayyarr, which means “choice.” Currently, South Africa produces 60% of the world’s mohair production.

Mohair fibers are about 25–40 microns in diameter. Mohair is a luxurious fiber, like cashmere, and it’s also expensive.

Properties,

• Mohair is a very soft fiber that lacks prominent scales along the surface of the hair. It is therefore blended with other types of wool, helping to bind and hold the mohair fibers together when spun into yarn. This mixing also gives it other unique properties.
• It is warmer than other fibers, has a distinctive luster, and is highly absorbent to dyes.
• Mohair fibers are easy to wash, as they do not shrink.

Mohair is used for scarves, suits, coats, jackets, socks, and winter hats. Mohair fibers are used in carpets and wall fabrics and serve as a substitute for fur.

The first photo is of a Muskox animal. Image source: wikimedia.org. The second is for Muskox yarn. Image source: wikiwand.com.

4. Qiviut Wool

Qiviut is one of the finest natural wool fibers. Qiviut is the inner wool of the musk ox. An outer and inner layer of wool covers the musk ox. Qiviut is the softer inner layer than the long outer layer.

Most qiviut wool production comes from Canada and is obtained from musk-ox after hunting. In Alaska, qiviut is obtained from farmed animals or caught in the wild.

Properties,

• Qiviut wool fiber has a diameter of about 18 microns.
• Qiviut wool fibers absorb pigments efficiently.
• Qiviut wool is eight times stronger and warmer than sheep’s wool.
• It is softer than cashmere wool.
• Qiviut wool is as luxurious and expensive as mohair.
• Qiviut fibers are odorless and keep warm even when wet.
• The musk ox’s wool also does not shrink.
• It is easy to wash with wool detergent.

Qiviut wool is commonly used for gloves, hats, shawls, sweaters, and scarves.

The first photo is of an Angora rabbit. The second is for angora rabbit fibers.

5. Angora Wool

Angora wool is the white hair of the Angora rabbit. As the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) says, there are four types of Angora: English, Giant, French, and Satin.

There are many other breeds, such as the German. China produces 90% of Angora wool, where 50 million Angora rabbits grow at a rate of 2,500–3,000 tons per year. Also, France, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Argentina, and Chile produce small amounts of Angora.

Characterizes,

• Angora wool fibers have a diameter of about 14–16 microns.
• High-quality angora wool is taken from the back and upper sides of the rabbit.
• The second-quality wool is taken from the neck and undersides. The third-quality angora wool is from the buttocks and legs.
• Angora wool is soft, light, absorbs water well, and can be dyed.

Angora wool is used mainly in knitted clothes, such as jumpers, scarves, socks, and gloves. Other fibers, such as sheep wool, are often blended with them for better processing performance.

The first photo is of alpaca animals. Image source: pinterest.com. The second is for alpaca fleece: image source: The British Alpaca Society.

6. Alpaca Wool

Alpaca wool fibers are obtained from alpaca animals. There are two types of alpaca: Huacaya produces thick, soft, and curly fibers. Suri Alpaca wool is considered rare, glossy, and silky.

Peru, the world’s largest producer of alpaca wool, produces 6,500 tons annually. About 80% of the wool fibers are shipped to China, Germany, and Italy for manufacturing.

Characteristics and properties,

• The diameter of alpaca fiber is approximately 20 to 70 microns.
• It comes in 22 natural colors with more than 300 shades.
• In addition to being lighter, warmer, and stronger than sheep wool.
• Alpaca wool does not contain lanolin.
• Alpaca fibers can be mixed well with sheep wool, mohair, and silk.

There are many uses for alpaca fibers, including hats, gloves, scarves, sweaters, bedding, and carpets.

The first photo is for Lama Animal. Image source: wikimedia.org. The second is for Lama fibers.

7. Lama wool

The lama is a South American camel closely related to the alpaca. Nowadays, over 100,000 lamas live in Canada and the United States, where most Lama wool is produced.

Shearing is usually done twice a year, yielding about 3–3.5 kilograms of fiber from each lama. Lama’s wool consists of coarse hairs on the outer coat and short, curly fibers on the undercoat.

Properties and characteristics,

• The llama’s hair comes in brown, reddish-brown, dark brown, black, white, and grey colors.
• Fine fibers have about 2–4 crimps per centimeter, while coarse hairs are relatively straight.
• The hair’s length ranges from 8 to 25 cm. The diameter ranges from about 10 to 150 microns, and the undercoat fiber is usually 10 to 20 microns.
• The wool of the llama is very soft, warm, and lanolin-free.

Llamas’ fine undercoat fibers can be used for garments and handicrafts. The coarser outer hair is used for rugs and ropes.

The first photo is of the Bactrian camel. Image source: istockphotos.com. The second is for camel wool fabric.

8. Camel Wool

The best camel wool is obtained from the two-humped Bactrian camel. Camels of this species are native to the Eastern and Central Asian steppes and number approximately 1.4 million.

Adult camels produce about 5 to 10 kg of wool per year. Nomadic families in Mongolia and China produce the best camel yarn. Afghanistan and Iran are also important producers.

Properties and characteristics,

• The Bactrian camel’s fine fibre measures between 2.5 and 12.5 cm in length and has a diameter of almost 20 microns.
• Baby camel fiber is 16 microns, making it softer and more expensive.
• The fibers of camel wool are luxurious, warm, and have a natural sheen.
• Their colors range from light brown to dark brown.

Sources

• Wool Classification Manual
• onlinelibrary.wiley.com… Monophyletic origin of domestic Bactrian camel and its evolutionary relationship with the extant wild camel.
• Australian Merino wool

©Eman Abdallah Kamel, 2023

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