Long Way Education

By Eman Abdallah Kamel

Eman is a writer and textile engineer. She obtained her bachelor’s degree in textile science from the Faculty of Applied Arts, Egypt.

In this article, you will learn about the history, types, and process of block printing on fabrics. You will also learn about the advantages and disadvantages.

Block Printing

Textile printing is a method for producing attractive designs on fabrics. These designs constitute artistic arrangements or motifs in various colors and patterns. Coloring and patterning are the two main methods of printing on fabric. The first technique is the direct application of color to the fabric, while the second uses patterns before coloring or dyeing the fabric.

Block printing is a method of providing color in the form of a design on fabric using a block carved with the design on it. This sculpted design is transferred by pressing the block onto the fabric. This process is the slowest of all textile printing techniques.

A Brief History of Block Printing

Hand-printed textiles in India originated in Gujarat and the surrounding states of Sind (now in Pakistan), Rajasthan, and Madhya Pradesh. In China, the earliest printed woodblock illustration was made in 868 AD, during the Tang dynasty (618–907 AD). Then, woodblock printing was expanded to produce books on the classics, literature, and illustrations.

Prominent woodblocks appeared in Egypt at the beginning of the Fatimid period (909 AD–1171 AD). The woodblocks contained repetitive geometric, plant, and animal motifs used in textile printing.

In Europe, printing on fabric with wooden stencils was standard for centuries. Woodblock printing started with the beginning of paper production in 1390. In Italy, the Book of Hours was printed in Arabic type around 1514. In 1890, color block printing began in America. Later, the methods of making color block prints advanced. The earliest method was the use of multiple blocks. In this process, the craftsman sculpts the area of the block not intended for printing. The pattern is then inked and printed. For each color, a new block must be printed exactly above the previous one. This method needs great skill and perfect practice. Some regions around the world still use the art of block printing to this day, such as India.

Types of Blocks

There are many types of blocks used for block printing, such as

• Wooden Blocks
• Linoleum Blocks
• Matchstick Blocks

1. Wooden Blocks: In this method, the logs of wood are sliced horizontally and cut into pieces according to the size of the design on the blocks, with a maximum size of 6 inches in diameter and 1½ inches in thickness.
2. Linoleum Blocks: Linoleum is softer than wood and free from grain. It’s easy to cut, but it doesn’t produce fine lines. The advantage of linoleum is that it is cheaper than cut wood. In addition, you can work faster on it. Linoleum blocks are made in a similar way to woodblocks.
3. Matchstick Blocks: A matchstick block is a simple form of printing. Matchstick printing is an easy way to handle blocks. It is also an inexpensive way to print, and children can pursue it as a creative hobby. Most geometric patterns are printed this way. In this method, you will need a pencil, a design (geometric shapes), scissors, a sheet of cardboard to make the block’s base, matches, flat plates, brushes, and fabric colors.
   

How to Block Print Fabric

To apply colors to fabric by block printing, you can follow these steps:

• Making of Blocks
• Materials Required for the Process
• Paste Formulation
• Printing Process
• Drying and Fixing the Printing Colors

1. Making of Blocks

The surface of the wooden mold must be sanded before the design is drawn on it so that the design can be uniformly traced onto the surface.

When you use a lino block, you do not need to polish the surface. The design can be transferred onto the surface using carbon paper. Another way to transfer the design onto the surface is to place the design on the wooden block, make holes, sprinkle charcoal dust over it, and press. The maximum single block size is 6 x 6 inches with a thickness of ¾ inch.

2. Materials Required 

1. Table: A polished tabletop.
2. Woolen cloth: It covers the wooden table, forming a flexible and stable base.
3. Jute: Jute cloth forms the base of the table.
4. Spoon: a teaspoon to pour the color on the pad.
5. Toothbrush: To clean the blocks.
6. Foam sheets: for making pads for colors.

3. Paste Formulation

The print-paste formulations for block printing are based on the use of pigment colors or dyes. The various components should be added as follows:

1. Reactive dye (depending on shade depth): 1-4 parts.
2. Hot water (70°C–80°C): 20 parts.
3. Salt resistance (mild oxidizing agent): 2-3 parts.
4. Urea (auxiliary dye solution): 5 parts.
5. Sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate: 1.5–2 parts.
6. Sodium alginate (thickener paste, concentration 4% to 6%): 65–70 parts.

4. Printing Process

1. Lay 3–4 layers of jute fabric on the table, then cover the jute fabric with 3–4 layers of fleece and lay a pair of bed sheets over it. Then spread the fabric to be printed without wrinkles on the table.
2. After preparing the printing paste, the paste is brushed evenly on the surface of the block containing the design with the help of a brush. Then gently press the pad so the dye paste does not get into the block. The printing paste will interfere with the design if there is an excess of paste in the block, so care should be taken while pressing the block on the pad containing the printing paste.
3. The block is then moved one step forward, and the process is repeated to maintain design continuity. To fill various parts of the design, separate blocks are used according to the design and the process.

5. Drying and Fixing the Printing Colors

When the printing paste formulation depends on the reactive dye, treatment could be steaming at atmospheric pressure for 5 to 10 minutes. Moreover, a dry heat treatment in a drying room at 140°C to 150°C for four to five minutes is advised to fix pigment printing. After drying and fixing the colors, the fabric is washed and dried.

Advantages of Block Printing

• The block print gives beautiful effects.
• This process produces bright prints.
• In the block printing process, you can use several blocks of different colors. Plus, different shades of the same color.

Disadvantages of Block Printing

• Block printing has low production and high costs.
• The placement of the blocks is rarely ideal, leading to a slight imbalance in the design.
• There is no accurate shading or gradient.

Safety Tips

During the block printing process, keep in mind the following points:

1. During the process, you can use personal protective equipment such as gloves, boots, and headgear.
2. Do not handle chemicals with your bare hands.
3. Try to store the used materials and equipment in their designated places.

Sources

• (PDF) HISTORY OF BLOCK PRINTING IN INDIA | Rajendra Thakur – Academia.edu
• www.ghazali.org. A Forgotten Chapter in the History of Printing.
• extension.wisc.edu. Arts and Communication.

©Eman Abdallah Kamel, 2022

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